Recipe:
Ingredients for the pastry:
175g/6oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting, Ground salt and 75g/2¾oz butter, plus extra for greasing
Ingredients for the filling:
250g/9oz Gruyere or Cheddar, grated, 200g/7oz bacon/ham, chopped, 5 free range eggs, beaten, 100ml/3½fl oz milk, 200ml/7fl oz double cream, pinch of salt, few grinds of black pepper and 2 sprigs of fresh thyme.
Instructions:
To make the the pastry, sift the flour and a pinch of salt into a large bowl. Rub in the butter with your fingers until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs. Slowly keep adding cold water and mix until it comes together to form a firm dough, then leave it to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
-lightly flour a surface and roll out the pastry to the size of a 22cm/8½inch well-buttered flan dish, and cut off the edges. Chill again.
-Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5.
-Bring the pastry case out of the fridge, line it with baking parchment and then fill it with baking beans. Place on a baking tray and bake blind for 20 minutes. Remove the beans and parchment and return to the oven for another five minutes.
-Reduce the temperature of the oven to 160C/325F/Gas 3.
-Sprinkle the cheese into the pastry base. Fry the bacon pieces and sprinkle over them over the cheese.
-Combine the eggs with the milk and cream in a bowl, add salt and pepper to taste. Pour this mixture over the bacon and cheese. Sprinkle the thyme over the top and trim the edges of the pastry.
-Bake for 30-40 minutes or until set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool and set further.
Regional details:
This recipe from Alsace belongs to both France and Germany, as the region has in the past switched between belonging to France and Germany.For that reason both French and German are spoken in Alsace and so the word for the dish ‘quiche’ derives the German word 'Kuchen' meaning cake. Interestingly the dish is considered typically french although custards and gelatinous substances are typically English.
Thursday, 24 November 2011
Saturday, 19 November 2011
Anecdote: Ratatouille
Extract found in the Contra Costa Times, by Nicholas Boer:
‘From Ragouts to Riches’
Hubert Keller, no relation to Thomas, appreciates the evocative power of simple foods such as ratatouille. A French chef whose vegetarian creations at Fleur de Lys in Vegas and San Francisco are legendary, Keller first discovered ratatouille growing up in Alsace." The look was not incredible," Keller says. "But the flavour was great." He loved ratatouille with fried eggs, letting the rich yolk mingle with juices from the savoury stew.
Later, while working as a chef in the South of France, Keller refined Grandma's ratatouille. In the summer, he prepped each ingredient with precision, sautéing minced onions, garlic and thyme together in one pan and cooking each remaining vegetable in just the right amount of olive oil (aubergine is a sponge) in its own pan. Once each element's colour and texture was locked in, Keller married them, finishing the mixture with a chiffonade of basil.
"It's an accident of nature," says Keller of the summer confluence of aubergine, zucchini, sweet peppers and tomatoes in the garden. While the seasonality of the ingredients is likely to have inspired ratatouille, Keller says produce that is picked together doesn't always work together. He compares humble ratatouille to Tournedos Rossini, beef filet with foie gras, truffles and red wine. You can assemble the ingredients in infinite ways, but the basic components remain the same over centuries for good reason.
In the East Bay, Jean-Paul Peluffo declares "too much of a good thing" doesn't apply to ratatouille. He serves it as a side dish with almost every entree at Le Bistro, the Walnut Creek restaurant he runs with his wife, Kathleen.
‘From Ragouts to Riches’
Hubert Keller, no relation to Thomas, appreciates the evocative power of simple foods such as ratatouille. A French chef whose vegetarian creations at Fleur de Lys in Vegas and San Francisco are legendary, Keller first discovered ratatouille growing up in Alsace." The look was not incredible," Keller says. "But the flavour was great." He loved ratatouille with fried eggs, letting the rich yolk mingle with juices from the savoury stew.
Later, while working as a chef in the South of France, Keller refined Grandma's ratatouille. In the summer, he prepped each ingredient with precision, sautéing minced onions, garlic and thyme together in one pan and cooking each remaining vegetable in just the right amount of olive oil (aubergine is a sponge) in its own pan. Once each element's colour and texture was locked in, Keller married them, finishing the mixture with a chiffonade of basil.
"It's an accident of nature," says Keller of the summer confluence of aubergine, zucchini, sweet peppers and tomatoes in the garden. While the seasonality of the ingredients is likely to have inspired ratatouille, Keller says produce that is picked together doesn't always work together. He compares humble ratatouille to Tournedos Rossini, beef filet with foie gras, truffles and red wine. You can assemble the ingredients in infinite ways, but the basic components remain the same over centuries for good reason.
In the East Bay, Jean-Paul Peluffo declares "too much of a good thing" doesn't apply to ratatouille. He serves it as a side dish with almost every entree at Le Bistro, the Walnut Creek restaurant he runs with his wife, Kathleen.
Friday, 18 November 2011
Ratatouille
Recipe:
Ingredients:
2 large aubergines, 4 small courgettes, 2 red or yellow peppers, 4 large ripe tomatoes, 5 tbsp olive oil, small bunch of basil, 1 finely sliced medium onion, 3 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, 1 tsp sugar
Instructions:
- Dice aubergines and courgettes.
- Peel the peppers from stalk to bottom and chop into small chunks.
2.Score a small cross on the base of each tomato, then put them into a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, leave for 20 secs, then remove. Pour the water away, replace the tomatoes and cover with cold water. Leave to cool, then peel the skin away. Quarter the tomatoes, scrape away the seeds with a spoon, then roughly chop the flesh.
3.Set a sauté pan over medium heat and when hot, pour in 2 tbsp olive oil. Brown the aubergines for 5 mins on each side until the pieces are soft. Set them aside and fry the courgettes in another tbsp oil for 5 mins, until golden on both sides. Repeat with the peppers. Don't overcook the vegetables at this stage, as they have some more cooking left in the next step.
4.Tear up the basil leaves and set aside. Cook the onion in the pan for 5 mins. Add the garlic and fry for a further min. Stir in the vinegar and sugar, then tip in the tomatoes and half the basil. Return the vegetables to the pan with some salt and pepper and cook for 5 mins. Serve with basil.
Region details:
Ratatouille is a traditional French Provence stewed vegetable dish originating in Nice. The verb "touiller" means "to toss food". It was originally a meal made by poor farmers and prepared in the summer but is now served in top restaurants. Ratatouille was originally made using cheap and over-ripe vegetables as a way of using up foods. It has now entered the English language and has spread worldwide during the 20th Century.
Ingredients:
2 large aubergines, 4 small courgettes, 2 red or yellow peppers, 4 large ripe tomatoes, 5 tbsp olive oil, small bunch of basil, 1 finely sliced medium onion, 3 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, 1 tsp sugar
Instructions:
- Dice aubergines and courgettes.
- Peel the peppers from stalk to bottom and chop into small chunks.
2.Score a small cross on the base of each tomato, then put them into a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, leave for 20 secs, then remove. Pour the water away, replace the tomatoes and cover with cold water. Leave to cool, then peel the skin away. Quarter the tomatoes, scrape away the seeds with a spoon, then roughly chop the flesh.
3.Set a sauté pan over medium heat and when hot, pour in 2 tbsp olive oil. Brown the aubergines for 5 mins on each side until the pieces are soft. Set them aside and fry the courgettes in another tbsp oil for 5 mins, until golden on both sides. Repeat with the peppers. Don't overcook the vegetables at this stage, as they have some more cooking left in the next step.
4.Tear up the basil leaves and set aside. Cook the onion in the pan for 5 mins. Add the garlic and fry for a further min. Stir in the vinegar and sugar, then tip in the tomatoes and half the basil. Return the vegetables to the pan with some salt and pepper and cook for 5 mins. Serve with basil.
Region details:
Ratatouille is a traditional French Provence stewed vegetable dish originating in Nice. The verb "touiller" means "to toss food". It was originally a meal made by poor farmers and prepared in the summer but is now served in top restaurants. Ratatouille was originally made using cheap and over-ripe vegetables as a way of using up foods. It has now entered the English language and has spread worldwide during the 20th Century.
Boeuf Bourguignon
Recipe:
Ingredients:
1 3/4 lbs cubed beef, 3.5 oz diced bacon/lardons, 1/4 cup butter/3 tbsp olive oil, 2 1/2 cups dry red wine, 2 chopped onions, 1 garlic clove, 2 tbsp flour, 2 tbsp mixed herbs, 1/2 lb sliced mushrooms, salt and pepper
Instructions:
- In a pressure cooker, brown the meat and the bacon in oil or butter
- Add the chopped onions and mushrooms and sprinkle with the flour
- Cook for 5 minutes, stirring all the time
- Pour in the red wine, which should completely cover the meat. If not, top up with water
- Add salt and pepper to taste, the garlic and mixed herbs
- Secure the lid and leave to cook on a low heat for at least 60 minutes.
- Remove the steam cockle and once it stops hissing, remove lid. Continue to simmer until serving.
Region details:
Boeuf Bourguignon originates from Burgundy (the Bourgogne region). It is one of the many examples of peasant dishes being slowly refined into Haute Cuisine. It was initially made to slow-cook meat that would have been tough to cook any other way. The recipe most people use to make an authentic Boeuf Bourguignon was first published by French Culinary expert Auguste Escoffier at the beginning of the 20th Century.
Boeuf Bourguignon has been brought to England, namely 'Beef stew'.
Ingredients:
1 3/4 lbs cubed beef, 3.5 oz diced bacon/lardons, 1/4 cup butter/3 tbsp olive oil, 2 1/2 cups dry red wine, 2 chopped onions, 1 garlic clove, 2 tbsp flour, 2 tbsp mixed herbs, 1/2 lb sliced mushrooms, salt and pepper
Instructions:
- In a pressure cooker, brown the meat and the bacon in oil or butter
- Add the chopped onions and mushrooms and sprinkle with the flour
- Cook for 5 minutes, stirring all the time
- Pour in the red wine, which should completely cover the meat. If not, top up with water
- Add salt and pepper to taste, the garlic and mixed herbs
- Secure the lid and leave to cook on a low heat for at least 60 minutes.
- Remove the steam cockle and once it stops hissing, remove lid. Continue to simmer until serving.
Region details:
Boeuf Bourguignon originates from Burgundy (the Bourgogne region). It is one of the many examples of peasant dishes being slowly refined into Haute Cuisine. It was initially made to slow-cook meat that would have been tough to cook any other way. The recipe most people use to make an authentic Boeuf Bourguignon was first published by French Culinary expert Auguste Escoffier at the beginning of the 20th Century.
Boeuf Bourguignon has been brought to England, namely 'Beef stew'.
Saturday, 12 November 2011
Anecdote: La Baguette
The Federation of bakers and confectioners of the Indre region in France hold a trophy competition for the best traditional French baguette every year, like many other regions. "It has been done at national level for ten years," said jury chairman and former president of the Federation of Bakers of the Indre, Jean-Marc Berruet. "This contest is held to enhance the image of bakery and create competition among our artisans," said Gilles Renaut, the deputy president of the federation. The baguette is judged on its appearance, taste, smell, texture and cooking. This type of competition is typical of French bakers young and old. Their passion for the hot, golden and crispy baguette is most inspiring.
Friday, 11 November 2011
La Baguette
Recipe for a 'Baguette de tradition':
Ingredients:
500g wheat flour, 350g water, 12g salt, 7g natural yeast
Instructions:
-Mix the yeast with water. Mix the flour and salt in large bowl, and then gradually add this to the water and yeast mixture. Cover the dough with a damp cloth and leave it to rise for an hour.
-Dust the surface with flour then divide the dough into three pieces and shape them into baguette. Place these onto a tray lined with baking parchment. Slice each baguette diagonally without cutting in too deep, then cover once more and leave to rise for another hour.
Step three: Pre-heat the oven to 230C. Bake for 15-20mins until rich golden brown.
Region Details:
The baguette was actually introduced from Vienna, Italy when they used Viennese steam injected ovens to bake the bread, which is what gives it its thick crust and typically holey interior. The baguette was introduced to Paris in the midst of the 19th Century when the upper classes strived for new and exciting food. There is nothing more typically French than a warm baguette. Unsurprisingly therefore, within the plaza of Notre dame, Paris holds its own annual ‘fete du pain’, where people can revel amongst some of the best bakers of Paris. The festival is always a success, which is not surprising when the French consume 8 billion baguettes a year, according to Bloomberg news.
How it became integrated into English cuisine: This bread became integrated in England from as early as the 1950’s. Ironically now it is the base for the typically ‘British’ ploughman’s sandwich. The baguette was also once saved from becoming mass-produced in the 1950s, by the famous baker and bread expert Raymond Calvel. However of course, in England you can find these mass produced baguettes in your everyday superstore, although most will tell you, it won't come close to a Parisian 'Baguette de Tradition'.
Ingredients:
500g wheat flour, 350g water, 12g salt, 7g natural yeast
Instructions:
-Mix the yeast with water. Mix the flour and salt in large bowl, and then gradually add this to the water and yeast mixture. Cover the dough with a damp cloth and leave it to rise for an hour.
-Dust the surface with flour then divide the dough into three pieces and shape them into baguette. Place these onto a tray lined with baking parchment. Slice each baguette diagonally without cutting in too deep, then cover once more and leave to rise for another hour.
Step three: Pre-heat the oven to 230C. Bake for 15-20mins until rich golden brown.
Region Details:
The baguette was actually introduced from Vienna, Italy when they used Viennese steam injected ovens to bake the bread, which is what gives it its thick crust and typically holey interior. The baguette was introduced to Paris in the midst of the 19th Century when the upper classes strived for new and exciting food. There is nothing more typically French than a warm baguette. Unsurprisingly therefore, within the plaza of Notre dame, Paris holds its own annual ‘fete du pain’, where people can revel amongst some of the best bakers of Paris. The festival is always a success, which is not surprising when the French consume 8 billion baguettes a year, according to Bloomberg news.
How it became integrated into English cuisine: This bread became integrated in England from as early as the 1950’s. Ironically now it is the base for the typically ‘British’ ploughman’s sandwich. The baguette was also once saved from becoming mass-produced in the 1950s, by the famous baker and bread expert Raymond Calvel. However of course, in England you can find these mass produced baguettes in your everyday superstore, although most will tell you, it won't come close to a Parisian 'Baguette de Tradition'.
Thursday, 10 November 2011
Preface
Brief history of the great French cuisine
In the early 19th Century food began to mean more to society than just simple nourishment. As Colin Spencer writes 'The cultural meaning that derived from the Grande cuisine suggest that members of the bourgeois and aristocratic classes are elevated beyond the mere physical need of nourishment, whereas characterizations of the styles of cooking of the lower, middle, and rural classes emphasize the physical aspect of eating' The bourgeois and aristocratic classes had the money to spend on exotic foods, there was high demand for extravagant meals and chefs became incredibly skilled in their field, however, as they were earning less than the average craftsman they could not read or write. Over time the bourgeois culture of eating had lead to the development of restaurants and society was becoming more and more interested in food, however, the interest was still mainly within the upper classes. Men known as 'Gourmands' (who could read, write, had an established knowledge of food, developed palettes, and an idea of how chefs cooked) would judge the food restaurants produced and write about it. Food became an art (and the french as we know were very talented at it) and slowly the pleasure of eating and sharing food was not restricted to the upper classes.
Influences on British cuisine
We can thank the Crusaders for European influences on British cookery. Wines were imported from Provence and other parts of Europe, and were highly valued. Apple and pear Cider was brought in from Normandy, and pear cider was dubbed 'perry'. The Norman conquest of 1066 also influenced British cookery as the french crossed the channel more, they brought with them their styles of cooking. Over time it is also notable that we Brits have adopted a lot of the french language associated with cookery. The word 'Beef' derives from the french 'Beouf' as opposed to what the English would originally called 'Oxen'. Due to the french writing the first recipe books on the art of cooking, the cooking terminology remains in its original language: 'Gratin','Jus','Coulis','Croutons','Farce','Flambé'...the list goes on. In the 1970's and 80's French cuisine became somthing of a fashion, 'Crêperies' appeared on British high streets and typical french foods such as exhibited on this blog were frequently eaten.
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